We recommend you dine at Agata e Romeo, Via Carlo Alberto, just past the church S. Maria Maggiore. Agata, Romeo and their daughter Maria Antonietta came from the south of Italy 25 years ago and have made this establishment one of the capital's most renowned addresses. As a starter, try the very light sformato di formaggio di Sogliano con salse di pere e miele di acacia (fresh ewe cheese, pear and acacia honey purée) which goes well with a dry, sparkling Franciacosta from Lombardy. Taste the delicious broccoli soup flavoured with skate and olive oil, an old Jewish recipe which Agata has updated. As the main course, cod cooked four ways (grilled, fried, boiled and cooked with tomatoes) is a tasty Roman speciality to be enjoyed with a dark red wine like Aglianico, a local vine variety grown to the south of Rome, somewhat similar to the French Merlot. The charming Maria Antonietta is the wine waitress and also comes round with the cheese board: she'll introduce you to some rare cheeses such as caciocavalo or formaggio di fossa (a ewe cheese ripened in sacks in underground holes from August to November). When it's time for dessert, Agata's mille feuille is a reference in Rome; ideally, try it with a glass of Moscato d'Arti which has a honey nose and aromas of apricot. From 65 to 89 € à la carte. Tasting menu at 135 €.